By KATHERINE STEWART.
Perhaps the most important job of mothering is keeping our kids safe. Unfortunately, that job becomes harder when skincare companies load their products with potentially harmful chemicals. During pregnancy and new motherhood, it's increasingly important to demand nontoxic skincare products for ourselves and our babies. Our bodies absorb what we put on them, and chemicals found in skincare products can even make it into breastmilk. When choosing balms, powders, lotions, washes, scrubs, and other products for yourself and your kids, carry this list of the top-six toxic skincare ingredients with you, so you know what to avoid. And before you worry that this list leaves nothing on the cosmetics shelf that's safe for mom and baby, check out our list of nontoxic, natural skincare ingredients.
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
Sodium lauryl sulfate, a powerful degreaser, is frequently added to
shampoos, body washes, and other cleansers. Studies published in the
Journal of the American College of Toxicology point out that sodium
lauryl sulfate can irritate the eyes and skin. It has also been shown
to cause severe epidermal changes to the area of the skin of mice to
which it was applied, suggesting a possible link to skin
tumors.
Sodium Laureth Sulfate
Also known as ammonium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate is
another cheap and effective surfactant that is frequently added to hair care
products, exfoliants, scrubs, and cleansers. According to the Registry
of Toxic Effects of Chemical Substances, a compendium of data from the
open scientific literature that can be accessed through the Centers
for Disease Control, animal studies on the substance show sense organ
effects even at very low doses. Numerous studies, including a 1983
report in the Journal of the American College of Toxicology, show broad
systemic toxicity.
Soapwort, a natural surfactant, is the favored alternative at Korres, which makes products for hair and skin.
Hydroquinone
Hydroquinone is often used in skin-lightening preparations, also termed
“brightening” creams. But scientific studies on the effects of
hydroquinone on the body cast a dark shadow on this ingredient. A March
1999 study in the scientific journal Biomedical Pharmacology reports
that hydroquinone has a toxic effect on cells containing melatonin.
Another 1999 report, this one in the scientific journal Toxicology,
states that hydroquinone is linked to tumor creation and DNA damage in
animals. Numerous other studies have linked the prolonged use of
hydroquinone with hyperpigmentation.
Aveda products brighten the skin without using hydroquinone. Instead, its
recently launched Embrightenment line uses a proprietary blend
of scutellaria (an herb), mulberry root, and grape extracts to diminish
the appearance of dark spots. It also includes the antioxidant
ingredient ascorbyl glucoside, or vitamin C, to brighten skin. Brown
algae and naturally derived salicylic acid promote an even skin tone.
Lead acetate
Commonly used in hair dye, styling gels, and scalp treatments, lead
acetate is an inorganic salt. Numerous studies reported in the Registry
of Toxic Effects of Chemical Substances, Toxicology, and the journal
Applied Pharmacology and studies conducted by the International
Agency for Research on Cancer: Overall Evaluators of Carcinogenity to
Humans have shown lead acetate to be a reproductive toxicant,
respiratory toxicant, and a possible carcinogen. Animal studies have
linked lead acetates to reproductive effects even at very low doses. In
Canada, its use is prohibited.
Petrochemicals
Petrochemicals are chemical products made from raw materials of
petroleum or other hydrocarbon origin. Although some of the chemical
compounds that originate from petroleum may also be derived from coal
or natural gas, petroleum is the major source. Petrochemicals include
benzoic acid, ethanol, ethylene, vinyl acetate, propylene, toluene, and dozens of others. Petrochemicals are
used to make petroleum jelly, mineral oil, and paraffin wax, and they
are in wide use as components in other cosmetic preparations.
According to the American Academy of Dermatologists, one petrochemical,
propolyne glycol, is implicated in contact dermatitis. Other studies
have linked propolyne glycol to kidney damage, eye irritation, and
headaches.
Eschewing petrochemicals, Aveda has pioneered the use of salicylic acid
from oil of wintergreen as a naturally-derived alternative to
traditional synthetic salicylic acid made from petrochemicals. Pangea
Organics and Naturopathica also steer clear of petroleum derivatives in
favor natural humectants such as lecithin, glycerin, and panthenol.
Phthalates
For decades, phthalates have been used as plasticizers—or substances
that increase the flexibility of plastic products—in everything from
toothbrushes to toys to water bottles. Phthalates are also added to
shampoos, lotions, and other personal care products as stabilizers,
lubricants, and emulsifying agents. They are often used as solvents in
perfumes. In spite of their widespread use, their safety is heavily contested.
Some scientists have linked phthalates to problems in reproductive
development. A 2005 study in the journal Environmental Health
Perspectives showed that some of the chemicals hindered testicular
function in infant boys. Another study, also published in 2005,
reported that human phthalate exposure during pregnancy resulted in
decreased anogenital distance among baby boys, a change that in rodents
exposed to phthalates is associated with genital abnormalities and
endocrine disruptors. This suggests that male reproductive development
in humans could be affected by prenatal exposure to phthalates. Studies
in numerous other scientific journals, including the British Medical
Journal link phthalates to reproductive, endocrine, respiratory, and
other health disorders.
Katherine Stewart has authored two novels and contributed to
publications including Newsweek International, Slate, Prevention, Marie
Claire, Yoga Journal, and Healing Lifestyles & Spas. She lives in
Santa Barbara, California, with her husband and two children.